My Happy Place

Santiago is full of fabulous places; Cafes, restaurants, bars, parks, plazas, soccer fields and more. But the place that I feel most happy, most calm and strangely at home, is at a big consumerist haven... the mall.

They are everywhere and as globalisation takes over, they are becoming very alike, no matter the location. Malls in Australia, China (in the big cities) and Chile are amazingly comparable. You can see the same brands of clothing, food, cafes, even architectural features are sometimes similar.

When mall crawling I find myself knowing where everything is, even though I haven't been there before. The whole routine of parking the car, window shopping, drinking a boost juice and generally taking in the hustle-bustle environment is unusually soothing.

I also enjoy time outside in nature, in a library, having dinner in a restaurant, but the mall really sticks out as my happy place here in Santiago, Chile. I don't generally buy anything on my mall visits either. I think I must be a child of mall culture, consumerism at its peak.  How odd.

Witnessing Culture Shock

The other night I met a fellow Australian here in Santiago. Not in an expat bar, not doing anything touristy, but at a small birthday celebration in the suburb of Macul. Everyone apart from myself and this guy were Chileans, and I was intrigued as to how he fit into the scene.

Over the course of the evening I got to know him and his story intrigued me.

This guy, we’ll call him Pablo, was born in New Zealand and moved to Australia when he was a one year old. His parents were Chilean and this was his first trip to Chile at the age of 30. He was a mechanic by trade, lived in Adelaide and other than New Zealand he had never been outside Australia.

Compared to most other expats Pablo was completely fresh to his current situation: being away from home, traveling, mixing with people of another culture, etc. I found his observations and opinions, along with his level of enthusiasm when he was talking, priceless.

They included:

• People are so different here. Everything is different.
• People are super sensitive about gift giving in Chile. “One time I was wearing a hat and someone gave me another hat but I didn’t put it on because I already had one on. Then they got mad. I didn’t know I had done anything wrong but people told me later I should have swapped the hats.”
• Alcohol is really cheap in Chile.
• It’s frustrating and tiring having to speak something other than your mother tongue all the time. “Its so nice to speak English with you guys!”
• He missed home a lot.
• People are constantly offering him food and help with things. It’s too much. 
• Portion sizes are bigger than Australia.
• People are so touchy here.
• Property is really cheap here.

Kiss or a Handshake (awkward)

Pablo was a typical aussie bloke. His slurred mumbling accent was perfect! It made me smile just listening to him talk about his rugby union team in Adelaide. (btw he thought Canberrans were super tough rugby-wise :) )

But the thing that was impressive about meeting this guy was realising that this experience was blowing his mind! He was going to remember every part of this trip. He’ll be telling his friends about it and how crazy it was for years to come.

Maybe coming to Chile could open his mind to other traveling opportunities, spark his curiosity about the world outside of Australia. How great would that be! Maybe he’ll be more open to engaging with the multicultural mix of people that live in Australia. More open to new Australians coming from other countries, because he has had a glimpse of what its like to be away from what you know and have to learn and adapt to a whole new way of life.

I am of the opinion (and I hope its not too far from the truth) that his experience outside of Australia will have a positive impact on his life in one way or another. He didn’t take the path of joining a tour group and seeing museums or backpacking and climbing mountains, he came with his mum to get to know where she came from by living in her old suburb, buying empanadas from the shop she used to and hanging out with his grandpa. Respect.

Spanish Jokes

Baby Football, Santiago

As I was watching my boyfriend play soccer the other night I started to think of some soccer jokes.

How do you get a man to dance gracefully along a painted line, twisting and turning along the way? 

Put a soccer ball between his feet.

How do you start a fight in Chile? 

Forget to bring the ball to a football match.

Then that got me started on other jokes...

How many Chileans does it take to change a light bulb? 

Five. One to change the light bulb, one to bbq the meat, one to play the guitar, and two to go buy enough pisco and coke for the night.

A:Knock knock
B: Who’s there?
A: One.
B: One who?
A: Juan Carlo, Can you let me in? Olvidé mis llaves.

Why didn’t the Chilean girl go to the dance? 

Because she had no Juan to go with.

How many completos italianos does it take ruin a life? 

Trick question. None. They only improve lives.

Why do people hate TranSantiago? 

Because its crowded and unreliable. (psych!)

Then there’s this one based on this Enrique Iglesias song:

¿Qué hace Enrique Iglesias en un campo de trigo? 

Estar con trigo, vivir con trigo, bailar con trigo!

Well, there you go. I don't quite consider myself a comedian so forgive me if none of that amused you. Just a bit of nonsense to start your day! 

Have a good one :)

The Right Way

Ice Cream Metaphor

People can experience the same things differently, I get that. I eat an ice cream and I feel happy and satisfied, someone else will eat the exact same ice cream and be confused at the appeal of the cold milky snack and want to throw it in the bin. Maybe I work in an ice cream factory and am sick of eating the left over ice creams, or maybe I have never had an ice cream before and my first try is heavenly. Perspectives on the ice cream differ. Every single person experiences it differently and their experiences are all valuable no matter their background. The ice cream factory worker knows more about ice cream, but that doesn't make the experience of a first time ice cream taster less correct.

I started thinking about this concept of how valuable and authentic one experience is compared to another when I was reflecting on my own experience living in Chile. From travel blogs I have read recently, it seems that my situation is quite unique. Not many foreigners get to live inside another culture like I am right now.

"My Situation":

• Sharing an apartment with Chileans.
• Having only Chilean friends and acquaintances.
• Being immersed in Chilean culture whenever I'm not alone or on Skype.
• Using Spanish everyday to communicate my thoughts and feelings.

These things have their advantages and disadvantages. Living with locals does give you a different perspective and lets you see things that are way outside the Lonely Planet version of a country. But are they more real and valuable than the three day tour version?

Foreigner Bubble

When I lived in China for a total of about three years I never lived within Chinese culture the way I am living within Chilean culture now. Sure, I ate Chinese food regularly, I practiced my Chinese with locals, I encountered strange and interesting things about the culture, etc. However I was always experiencing these things from the outside. I didn't live with a Chinese family, I didn't have many Chinese friends, so I found parts of my own culture within China to relate to and enjoy. Basically I lived in a foreigner bubble version of China.

I'd like to point out that I had a fabulous time in that bubble. I made amazing friends, experienced new things, and learnt a lot about the world. The foreigner bubble isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it did keep me at an arm's length from the country I was living in.

This realisation of how different my 'foreigner life' in China was compared to my current 'local life' in Chile makes me wonder if my Chinese experience would have been more valuable and authentic if I was immersed in everyday Chinese life. Definitely, my Chinese language skills would be much more advanced. After three months in Chile with no prior Spanish training (except a few months on Memrise) I have conversational Spanish and a basic hold on grammar. Getting to that level in Chinese took me three years. Another difference is that I would have learnt more about Chinese culture from observing those around me 24 hours a day rather than reading about it in a book or hearing another expat's perspective on a certain tradition.

On the other hand I wouldn't have connections all around the world, like I do now, if I lived in a local context, and I probably still wouldn't know that Turkmenistan exists. And maybe, just maybe, I wouldn't have enjoyed myself as much. I wonder whether I would have kept on returning to China after an intense cultural experience? Being all of 14 when I first visited China, I think I would have been quite shocked at the prospect of being put into a completely Chinese environment and that may not have had the best impact on my excitement for China. But who knows.

Living like a Local

The fact is that living as a local, for all its value, is hard. First of all, how do you get into this situation? It's not an easy feat. I remember having a deep desire to connect with locals and share with them in China. I looked for avenues to achieve this goal- hobbies, clubs, language exchanges, etc. It doesn't always work out how you think it will, and it requires a lot of persistence to find a local who:

a) isn't using you for English speaking practice,
b) is cool, and
c) wants to hang out with you.

I guess that's why a lot of people pay good money to do home-stay programs and immersion internships. (My first solo trip to China was through a volunteer organisation, Lattitude Global Volunteering.) My Chilean pathway to living in a local environment was less planned: I fell in love with a Chilean. He has been kind enough to show me his country and I am grateful everyday for his help in understanding his homeland and its people. I know I am very lucky to be able to share this experience with him. Many people don't get the chance to live like a local when they travel overseas and their experiences contain completely different content because of that.

Your Version

Imagine all the different impressions foreigners can have of a single country. Your thoughts on China or New Zealand, for example, are almost certainly going to be different to mine. Some people travel on tours, others with their parents, some backpack without plans. Budgets differ, time frames differ, reasons for travelling differ too. Which version is the best? Which combination produces the most reliable presentation of a country? All of them happen, all are true, yet they result in different experiences, good and bad, and varied images of a place. Local is one way. Foreigner bubble is another way. Tourist another.

Cajón Del Maipo - The Perfect Barbecue

If you are looking for a peaceful escape close to Santiago, Chile, Cajón Del Maipo is what you’re looking for. Only an hour outside the city, this beautiful valley has many different picnic areas and riverside retreats for soaking in the natural ambiance. I visited a picnic area called "El Manzano" and I can honestly say out of all the barbecues I have experienced in Chile so far, and believe me there have been a lot, this was my favourite. In four words: quiet, green, fresh, natural.

Buses come out here for tourists and there’s heaps of room for parking cars. There are barbecue areas (without the grill, so you might want to bring your own), tables, chairs, and bathrooms too.

Here are some pictures so you can get a better idea.

Amazing Scenery

Beer, chips, shade. The essentials.

Four person barbecue, cooked with charcoal

Lovely (freezing) water cascading down off the mountain tops

Up above. See anything?

Barbecues and picnics are great aren't they? Especially in a place like this. All you do is cook, eat, chat, take in some sun and let the good times roll. Looking forward to the Chilean Summer.

Learning Spanish in Chile : The First Two Months

Learning a new language is a big task, whatever the language. It is also my favourite part of travelling. Although it can be tiring and slightly overwhelming at times, communicating with someone using a whole new language system is very rewarding. In my opinion, living immersed in the language you are learning is the quickest way to learn it because your environment encourages you (forces you) to engage with the language almost all day and night. This is great as it gives you instant motivation to practice the language and improve your language skills rapidly. As soon as you step outside there are opportunities to practice, it almost takes more energy to not speak and read and communicate with locals.

Learning Spanish in Chile has been interesting. A lot of people, even Chileans themselves, say that they speak Spanish badly. Definitely the accent here is quite different from the CD ROM that comes with your standard Spanish textbook, with the omission of certain sounds, a huge amount of slang and a kind of closed mouth form. However as an Australian, I can hardly complain about all these things. Australian English is often described quite similarly. The Chilean accent is just that, an accent, after a while your ears will get use to the sound.

Looking back over the first two months of my time in Chile, I have definitely come a long way since I arrived. My Spanish learning journey started with my first hot shower... I remember looking down at the taps and seeing an “F” and a “C”. I already knew the word for cold, frio, so that was easy, and I thought I knew the word for hot, calor, done and done. However during the next few days I noticed that things like water, food and heaters were described as caliente, and so I put two and two together and understood that the C in the shower was for caliente not calor! Am I blowing your mind right now? Ok, just let me get past my first jet lag influenced epiphany… This was when I realised that everything was going to be in Spanish from now on, even small details like hot and cold taps.

In the first few weeks of living in Chile I noticed things like this everywhere and it was so much fun because my level of Spanish was so low that my rate of improvement felt so fast: There was nowhere to go but up! Everywhere I looked were new words. Driving into town I couldn’t help but read every single sign I saw, my eyes were in hyper drive, as my brain attempted guessing the meaning of the passing shopfront of Santiago.

After a while I realised I needed a structure way to study and so I bought a book: “Easy Spanish - Step by Step” by Barbara Bregstein. This was a good choice and I would recommend the book to anyone at a beginner Spanish level. I did a few chapters a week and in less than a month I was able to have basic conversations (with very little grammar), and I was being understood without playing charades, which is always a good feeling.

At that point my listening skills were way ahead of my speaking, reading and writing skills as I was exposed to so much conversation every day that I guess I absorbed new words by osmosis. This put me in a unique mute position. I could grasp the gist of what was being said (with a few holes here and there) but I was unable to join the conversation and express my opinions and experiences. Surprisingly, it takes more than a month to be fluent in Spanish! So without the gift of the Spanish gab I took to observing Chilean culture from an outsider’s perspective and tried to learn as much as possible. I also started this blog to make sure I didn’t forget my observations.

After two months (right now) I am able to have slightly more intermediate conversations using conjugations in the present tense and using a small selection of verbs in the past tense. I have also learnt common phrases and slang to throw into conversation to fake fluency. I think I fool some people, although having blonde hair doesn’t help the charade...

To validate my claims of speaking a bit of Spanish I present to you the proof: Last night I made a friend. A Chilean friend who doesn’t speak a word of English! I proved that I can have a 15 minute conversation with a local without any misunderstanding. Very satisfying. It’s things like that, connecting with people face to face, that motivate me to keep going, to get better so that I can understand my new friend better and learn something from them.

Making these small connections and sharing with people from different walks of life is a big part of why I enjoy travelling. It helps me to understand the world and reflect on my own life with greater clarity.

Entrepreneurial Spirit in China, Chile and Australia

I find it fascinating to travel and learn about different cultures because it helps me to understand the world better. Conceptualising theories in from a textbook is not useful until you know that it is real somewhere. I have learnt so much from living outside of my own culture and I recommend it to everyone who has the opportunity. 

Entrepreneurship

The vibe that I have felt when in developing countries like China and Chile is one of movement, motivation and opportunities. It rubs of after a while and you feel excited just to be part of it. So many people are finding new ways to be prosperous, to improve their living standards, to connect with the rest of the globe and think outside the box. 

When I lived in China I found that working hard and business networking was a part of life, a vital part. People were open to ideas and opportunities coming their way and they set aside a significant amount of their personal time and energy for pursuing those opportunities. Apart from cultural tendencies for making contacts and helping people with favours, the fact that the economy was growing rapidly seemed to influence their view of their potential in that environment and motivated them to take advantage of the available opportunities. 

I also met many foreign expats in China who were thinking of how to open their own businesses so they could connect with the opportunities of the Chinese market. Some of them were also from developing countries. I really admire all of their views and motivation for creating something from nothing. At the the same time they are willing to take risks for the chance to succeed, and they aren’t afraid to fail and learn from mistakes.

In Chile I have found a similar phenomenon. Young Chileans are very open to meeting new contacts, to network and talk about their ideas. Many people have their own small businesses and are working out the issues along the way with the support of their families and friends. But the point is they are willing to work hard to be their own boss and make something for themselves. When networking, the way Chileans and Chinese people explain their ideas is with passion, with authority and with a little bit of “fake it til you make it”. This skill is very useful in life, not only in business but socially too. Having confidence in your thoughts and projects shows your motivation and planning, the time you have put into something and how far you are willing to go to succeed, your commitment. It also helps you develop your powers of persuasion and diplomacy: essential skills to have to get what you want. As a non native speaker of both Mandarin and Spanish, I have coined this “whoever talks the longest wins”. The more you can talk about a topic, the more information you can impart on the other person in the conversation, the more you you know, the smarter and more well informed you are. This positions you better to gain and use contacts. It is definitely a skill I need to master.

However Australian culture is different. We have tall poppy syndrome, we don’t want to hear someone go on and on about how much they know. Instead of being impressed we might be hesitant to cooperate with them, we might interpret the noise as compensation for lack of actual knowledge or credibility. Moreover from my experience in Australia so far I see less entrepreneurial spirit in young people. Most people are interested in securing a well paying job by studying at a advanced level and working their way up the chain (while paying off their Uni loans). In Australia this is achievable and is very secure, so in reality this plan is a smart one, however the environment discourages new businesses being created and level of competition in the market. In general the population is risk adverse and would rather take the safe pathway to financial security. Now, I don’t pretend to be an expert of economics, so I would be very interested if anyone has other comments on this.

I’m sure that government policy, laws, media, culture, location and many other factorrs also influence the amount of business growth and entrepreneurial spirit in a country. As Prahni from Seachange says “Everything is connected to everything else”.   

Welcome to Santiago

 Welcome to Santiago

You know, living in another country is kind of challenging. There's the new food, the new language, the new culture, the new music, the new transport, the new job, the new people... I mean, its a lot to take in. But if its so hard then why do people do it? What makes people look for the opportunity to change their whole world and start fresh? 

Obviously there are a bunch of different reasons and it would be boring to give you all the answers right away. Instead, I hope to share some of my thoughts on the subject with you through this blog.

This blog is going to be primarily about keeping track of experiences, revalations and learning in general which will all take place in and around the South American country of Chile. So let me introduce myself...

I am Australian, have lived in China for three years and now have started a new chapter of my life in Santiago, Chile. After only six weeks, I have already learnt so much from this country and its people. I have been bombarded with cultural differences I didn't see coming and I am enthusiastic to tell people about everything.

I aim to be objective, curious, positive, adventurous, flexible, diligent and easy going. Hope you find something you can relate to along the way. Leave me comments if you wish, or not. 

Anyway, I'll leave you with a picture and once more say welcome to Santiago, Chile! (Link: Lonely Planet intro)